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LINYANTI & CAPRIVI TRIP 2008
In January 2008 we decided to explore areas of Botswana & Namibia which we had yet
to visit. The plan was to visit Linyanti, the Caprivi and the western panhandle region
of the Okavango Delta.
Due to the usual time constraints we spent alot of time travelling
with little time to explore each destination with over 2500km covered in 5 days!!
During the trip we enjoyed the company of Stewart & James Mcallister who we had arranged
to meet in Kasane on the 31st before dropping them off at Nata Lodge on the 5th.
One of the major problems we faced was the rain which seemed to follow us throughout
the trip causing problems as we didn't have time to let the tents and bedding dry
out each morning before we set off!! The good rains in the region also meant that
wildlife was scarce however the sightings we did have and the fantastic birdlife
more than made up for this....
The highlights were Wild Dog in Linyanti as well as
Black Coucal, Chestnut-bellied Kingfisher and Redshouldered Widow - just a few of
the 150 different bird species seen.
Monday 31st December
Palapye - Nata - Kasane
In order to be at the Kazungula ferry
for 5pm to meet the Mcallisters we set off early from Palapye stopping briefly in
Francistown and Nata for food.
We arrived in Kasane around 4pm giving us time to check
out our campsite for the night at Toro Safari Lodge. On arriving there we found the
place pretty full with the campsites quite close together, so we decided to look
elsewhere. About 1km towards Kasane we saw the sign for Ngina Safaris which we had
heard of from a friend and decided we would check it out. Although the campsites
were still quite close together the trees afforded a measure of privacy and the campsite
wasn't as busy.
After reserving our campsite we went to meet the boys at the ferry
before returning to cook a dinner of stir-fried chicken and couscous. As we had an
early start the next morning we ruled out seeing in the New Year and went to bed
early!
Distance travelled: 650km
Tuesday 1st January
Kasane - Ghoha - Linyanti
During the night it had rained quite
a bit leaving the tents soaking, however there was nothing we could do but pack everything
away and hope for drier weather later on to dry out the tents! Before we had finished
packing the rain started to fall again leaving us rushing around packing the last
items whilst getting soaked!! Due to the rain we didnt manage to leave before 8am...
At the Chobe entrance gate we were warned about the road to Linyanti as it had been
flooded and a wildlife officer had been stuck there for 2 days!! We decided the best
option would be to head for Ghoha gate and ask them the latest road conditions or
alternatively attempt to get a reserve Savuti campsite for the night.
Just after
we arrived at Ghoha another wildlife officer drove up and said he was going to Linyanti
and we could follow him to see the best route through the water, which we did. After
navigating a couple of water crossings (see further down) and some deep sand we arrived
within an hour at Linyanti entrance gate.
After setting up camp we set out for a
game drive however apart from a herd of Kudu & Impala we didn't see much before the
rain started again so we headed back to camp to try and prepare for the rain as best
we could. The rain hadn't yet fallen at the campsite but it was threatening rain
all around so we decided to cook before it started.
As we were siting round the fire getting ready to cook we heard the sound of running
animals and looked up just as an Impala charged across the open space in front of
our camp with a Wild Dog in hot pursuit!! The Impala collapsed, out of exhaustion,
and the Wild Dog proceeded to enjoy his kill. Shortly after he was joined by another
Wild Dog and together they ate the Impala just 10metres away from where we were sitting,
seemingly unconcerned by our presence! Unfortunately the light, which had been poor
all day, was fading rapidly so I had to get out my flash in order to salvage some
semi-decent photos of the excitement!
The whole thing lasted just over 10minutes
(just enough time for James to finish his shower and see them!) with the Dogs moving
off shortly after leaving us to catch our breath and think about making our dinner!!
We cooked a beef stew with potatoes and other vegetables whilst hoping for Hyena's
to come and investigate where the Impala had been killed. Sure enough a large Hyena
appeared and we watched him for a few minutes before we went to bed. What a way to
start the New Year!!
Distance travelled: 190km
Wednesday 2nd January
Linyanti - Katima Mulilo - Nambwa
The next morning we spent a
leisurely time watching birds and enjoying the antics of the Vervet Monkey's before
their alarm calls alerted us that a predator was around. We couldn't see anything
but a few minutes later we suddenly saw the Wild Dog's back again looking for any
remains from their kill the night before. After finishing off what little there was
left they wandered right through the campsite, past the ablutions before trotting
off into the surrounding woodland.
Reluctantly we started to pack up the vehicles as we still had quite a distance to
go to get to our next destination - Nambwa Campsite in Namibia. After signing out
we took the cutline road again towards Ghoha, passing a small pool occupied by a
rather unfriendly Hippo just south of the Entrance Gate. We managed to navigate the
water crossings with no problems at all, remembering to use the same tracks we had
used on the way to Linyanti!
We reached the border by lunch and after completing the formalities we headed to
Katima Mulilo for some lunch as well as to stock up on supplies. NB The foreign vehicle
road tax can't be paid at the border and has to be paid at a small office just near
Katima! We left Katima later than we should have meaning we didn't reach Nambwa until
late afternoon which didn't give us any time to do game drives in Bwabwata. With
rain threatening (again!) we cooked dinner - Kudu mince with pasta - before heading
to bed.
Distance travelled: 305km
Thursday 3rd January
Nambwa - Rundu - Ngepi
The next morning we just relaxed by the
river looking out for an elusive Otter that made two brief appearances. Shortly after
packing up the rain began so we scrapped our plans for a game drive and headed for
our next destination.
On the way we called in at Popa Falls for a quick look round
and arrived at Ngepi Camp in the early afternoon. We decided that the clouds looked
ominous so didn't bother unpacking the tents which was a good job as it proceed to
bucket down for the next hour! There was nothing to do but sit in the vehicle and
wait until the worst had passed. Once the rain had eased we decided to rig up the
ground sheet to try and build a fire and start cooking however we had no wood left
and Ngepi Camp had left all theirs out in the rain!! After managing to source some
dry wood from a nearby village we set about building a fire under the tarpaulin.
After a hearty Springbok stew, we relaxed round the fire enjoying the fact that the
rain kept most of the insects at bay! We then decided to build a fire under the donkey
boiler (surprised there was no hot water in the showers!) in order to have a shower
before we went to bed.
Distance travelled: 220km
Friday 4th January
Ngepi - Shakawe - Guma Lagoon
After the rain of the night before
the day started off quite brightly and a walk round the campsite revealed a number
of interesting birds such as White-winged Widowbird, African Pygmy-Goose, African
Golden Oriole and Cape Parrot.
After packing up we headed south towards the border.
The road becomes gravelled just south of Ngepi, passing through Mahango Game Park
- we didn't see much wildlife apart from a tiny Leopard Tortoise crossing the road.
Again the border crossing was completed with no problems and we headed to Shakawe
to buy some meat and get some fuel, before driving south towards Etsha 13. We called
at Sepupa Swamp Stop for lunch - very nice setting overlooking the river and the
food was good when it eventually arrived almost an hour later!! Our campsite for
the night was at Guma Lagoon Camp with the guide book warning that the tracks out
of Etsha13 can be confusing! After asking directions twice we finally got confirmation
that the terrible sand road we were on was indeed the right track and would lead
us to the Camp!!
After 30mins (12km) of slogging through very deep sand we arrived
at the Camp. The Camp is well situated with stunning views over the Lagoon from almost
all the tents. The dining area has a decking that also overlooks the Lagoon. After
being shown our campsite we decided to take an hour boat cruise on the Lagoon before
sunset - the rates are reasonable. There were not too many birds of note however
the scenery made up for it with Papyrus grass lining the lagoon.
While we were out
the wind picked up and it looked like it could rain so we headed back to our campsite
to make plans for cooking our last meal. We decided the best option would be to use
the well-equipped kitchen/dining area to save having to rig up the tarpaulin again.
We knew we would be leaving early so we made use of the cutlery and crockery provided
so as not to have to re-pack the car - as we were the only guests we had the kitchen
to ourselves! Fortunately the rain held off and we were able to do a braai for the
first time!
Distance travelled: 150km
Saturday 5th January
Guma Lagoon - Maun - Nata - Palapye
After waking early we set
off for Etsha13 - even heading to Etsha13 the tracks were confusing and the sand
very deep. After stopping in Maun to refuel we arrived at Nata Lodge just after 1pm
where Stewart & James were picked up. While they headed north we headed south, after
a quick lunch, arriving in Palapye at 7:30pm - 13hours on the road!!
Distance travelled:
1000km
